. 7 Answers SOURCE: Well John Henery I'm new to this type of correspondence,but I'll give it a try! #1 Disconnect from power & remove the 10 bolts holding the cover.(There should be diagams by each of the 3 jumper sets to be changed.) #2 Standing at the front look to the rear left,and you should see 4 studs. (Dotted line=buss jumper) x-x x-x x x-x x 240V 480V #3 At the front center down low there will be 4 more studs. X-x x-x x x-x x 240V 480V #4 On the right rear there is a vertical board with 10 studs. X x x x x x x x x x-x x x x x x-x-x x x (240V) (480V) As far as your no power problem look at the main power switch. Of the wires that go to the welder, 3 will go to the power board, and 2 to the control board.
When you hook the power cord to the house power you need to make sure to use the 2 cord conductors that will also feed the control board. I do have an operator's manual for a 300SM, contact me at,and I'll get you a copy. Tom Posted on May 25, 2009. Search the internet for: Make + Model + the word 'Manual' or contact manufacturer support. Check out the manual for the White 2200 or 1927.
One or both could be close enough to your model to be helpful. Machines generally didn't change a lot from model to model.
May 11, 2016. Well John Henery I'm new to this type of correspondence,but I'll give it a try! #1 Disconnect from power & remove the 10 bolts holding the cover.(There should be diagams by each of the 3 jumper sets to be changed.) #2 Standing at the front look to the rear left,and you should see 4 studs. (Dotted line=buss jumper) x-x x-x x x-x x 240V 480V #3 At the front center down low there will be 4 more studs. X-x x-x x x-x x 240V 480V #4 On the right rear there is a vertical board with 10 studs.
X x x x x x x x x x-x x x x x x-x-x x x (240V) (480V) As far as your no power problem look at the main power switch. Of the wires that go to the welder, 3 will go to the power board, and 2 to the control board. When you hook the power cord to the house power you need to make sure to use the 2 cord conductors that will also feed the control board.
I do have an operator's manual for a 300SM, contact me at,and I'll get you a copy. Tom Apr 10, 2009.
Thanks for the response. I have indeed looked behind that panel. Nothing there, not even a hole! I am not so much interested in the feature, I would just like to know which machine it is.
I can read the powcon 200 on the front panel. The lettering following Powcon 200 is rubbed off.
The powcon 200 sm manual that I found on the net shows that 'puddle control' that I don't have. I am just curious as I cannot find any references to any other powcon 200 models on the internet. I am happy with the machine. I am not a talented welder, most of my experience is about 30 years old welding with a motor/generator set doing build up on a mixer in a cement block plant that my aunt owned. I ran across this one on CL and I couldn't resist. The machine had about a 50 ft power cord that is at least 4 gauge wire or larger. I replaced that with a 6 ft 8 gauge cord.
It also has a new pair of stick leads that are about 35-40 ft long. I am considering making them into 10 footers. I have no need to move that welder anywhere other than where it is right now. Besides, those short cables will be a good excuse not to move it. It has a new 12-15 ft tweeco mig gun so I will have a little room to move around. Check this website out. It lists a lot of manuals for PowCon welders that were made.
I'm not sure if PowCon repair parts are still sold by any company but it seems like Lincoln now owns the official PowCon repair and parts supplier that we used to have here in San Diego. I just happened to remember it when I drove by there about two or three months ago. Try calling them ARC Products 245 30th Street San Diego, CA 92154 USA Toll-Free: 800-770-0063 Local: 619-628-1022 Fax: 619-628-1028 I do have a PowCon 300ST and I loved welding with it before it was put into storage. Franz, Is the puddle control going to be the same as the arc-force adjustment i see on all the miller and lincoln inverters. At least on the miller the arc force adjustment is 1-100 (percent?) scale and on the side of the dial it is labeled fcaw (flux core arc welding) some how I find a sweet spot at 80 but I had a tech who is really good tell me when in doubt turn it all the way down for FCAW.
For stick welding i usually set it at around 60 but i will turn it down if I am getting undercut or weld something very thin. I know your not a fan of inverters but it is how we do most of our welding for stick i would really rather have a big old dc generator type welder. DON'T cut the cables! Also do NOT wind them around a metal drum tightly or hang them on a small diameter hook.
My interaction with PowCon doesn't leave me with memory of the control you mention, but I have a hunch it may have been a fine voltage adjustment. My feeling when those machines came to market was that PowCon had dreams of picking up the market share P&H had held until P&H stopped building welders.
My experience with PowCon was that they missed the mark. I will absolutely guarantee you the arc on the PowCon ain't the same arc a rotary makes. I own 2 P&H transformer machines, andneither can run stick as nicely as my Lincoln rotaries, which I own 5 of. Your statement on the MIG gun puzzles me, do you just have the gun & cable or do you also have the wire driving end of the MIG? Thanks for all of the discussion and advise.
I do have the wire feeder, along with a couple of large rolls of wire, 1 of them is.035 flux core (E71T) and the other is.030 (AWS/SF A5.18). I do not have a bottle yet so I will be using the flux core for the near future.
I have looked at the site with all of the powcon manuals and they are the same files that I already have. Thanks for that link. Way back in the days of wooden ships and iron men, (when I was doing build up on the cement mixer), that rotary welder would burn rod that was bigger than my finger!
All I had to do was strike the arc and the machine did the rest. As far as I know, there was no duty cycle limit on the thing. I would start on Sunday morning about 7 am and weld until about 1 or 2 in the afternoon. The one thing that I didn't like about welding is that inside that mask, you are not aware of your surroundings.
My dad or brother would come over to bring lunch and just plain scare the crap out of me. I do understand the downside of shortening the stick cables but shop is very small for what I have in it. (Grizzly G4003g lathe, SB Heavy 10 lathe, Grizzly G0695 vertical mill, Atlas MFC horizontal mill, a steel workbench with a huge vise that I use as my press, this welder, an O/A set, bench grinder, drill press and various roll around tool boxes) All of that stuff is in half of a 2 car garage. The limiting factor for me is that my wife's car must fit in the garage!
I am currently desperately looking for a place for a little 4 x 10 metal cutting bandsaw. There is just not room for a large coil of cables unless I get rid of some machines (the atlas mill and grizzly lathe are candidates) The welder's final resting place will be under the steel workbench. I plan on a cable directly attached to that bench so I can just use the vise to hold the work and weld right there. Just for fun, I would like to try and learn TIG welding and need a recommendation for a TIG torch to use with this machine. Is there a gas mix that will work with both TIG and MIG? Any and all input is welcome. I do appreciate your sharing your experience with me.
Thanks, Earl. Sorry Earl, no common gas for Mig and Tig. You will have to have at least 2 bottles.
One bottle of pure Argon, and one bottle of either straight CO2 or a mix called 75/25 or stargas. I would also try to get a wp-17 size torch and make sure that you get a few extra tungstens and have them sharpened and ready to go because you will dip the tung and will need to either swap it out or resharpen it to get your arc back under control. I sharpen a bunch ahead and swap them till I run out, then I stop and sharpen them all at the same time. That helps get your points much more consistent which will translate into a more predictable arc.
Tig welding is all about patience and hand eye coordination. It will take many many hours of practice to get really good at Tig, but once you get there you will be amazed at all the different things that you can do, and the variety of old parts that you can now salvage and prevent going into t he dumpster or scrap pile. You should also get a few extra collets, collet bodies, and a few extra collet nose pieces as well as a variety of different size and length Alumina shielding gas cups.
Once you skill improves you might also consider a gas lens and the pyrex cups to allow you to see the weld a little better. I guess you can tell that Tig is my favorite process because it requires a skill that borders on an art form to do well and there is no magic machine or tool that will substitute for good old daily practice to hone your skill to it's best.
I always tell my students to not give up before their miracle happens. You will plod along and struggle till all of the sudden it makes sense and bam your welds begin to look just like that stack of dimes that any good welder can lay down effortlessly everytime. Good luck and do not hesitate to ask any question that you may have because there are several really accomplished welders who will be thrilled to help you get going. I am not an expert O/A craftsman but I do have experience putting panels on cars and other 'light' duty O/A welding.
I have also done a lot of brazing. I think it is harder to control the brazing puddle than it is the welding puddle. The brazing gets away from me much faster. I have a better track record of things staying together in a high vibration environment when I braze. My Dad used to laugh at me when I was a teenager. He used to say that there was more braze on the floor than on the joint I was working on.
I think that TIG would be a challenge that I would like to try.
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I'm cleaning out my office and found a manual that includes part #s and a schematic for a Powcon 300ST. It's free to someone that still has a Powcon and can use it.Hi, my husband has a PowCon 300ST he's used for many many years but he is just now going to be starting to use it for TIG Welding. He is 54 and hates computers, very very Old School.
He asked me to try and find the Owner's Manual for his machine and I looked all over the web and found this old post. I went to arcoweld/AWRI and Miller Websites and they don't have the owner's manual for this model. Do you possibly still have a copy I will gladly pay you for your trouble? Or could you lead me in the right direction to find an old owner's manual? THANK YOU!:-).
Hi, my husband has a PowCon 300ST he's used for many many years but he is just now going to be starting to use it for TIG Welding. He is 54 and hates computers, very very Old School. He asked me to try and find the Owner's Manual for his machine and I looked all over the web and found this old post. I went to arcoweld/AWRI and Miller Websites and they don't have the owner's manual for this model. Do you possibly still have a copy I will gladly pay you for your trouble? Or could you lead me in the right direction to find an old owner's manual?
THANK YOU!:-)Would an emailed electronic copy suffice? I emailed a copy to Oliver but never heard back from him. PM me if interested. Ignore me if not (most others do anyway ).
Hi all, I'm a welding novice. I've been using my Lincoln 135 Plus for a number of automotive projects at home, but have wanted a TIG welder. I did some TIG welding a number of years ago and liked the precision and appearance of TIG in comparison to MIG. Anyhow, I've been offered on very extended loan (meaning I can have it for free) an old PowCon 300ST that I've been told works. I have dinky shop and the small size of the PowCon makes it very attractive. I've searched the archives and come up with some info but am interested in a couple of things.
I'm hoping that the folks on this NG can help a bit. 1) The unit does not come with a foot controller and I'd like one. I would prefer not to spend $280 for a pedal (one of the archived posters said that's what's wanted for a new one) and if I can score a relative cheapy on the used market, I'd be happier. Do I need to buy one specifically for the PowCon or are these 'universal'? If they're not universal but not specific to the PowCon, what do I need to look for?
2) Someone in one of the posts I perused commented that inverter machines are not good for welding aluminum. 3) The posts I've read seem to indicate that these are good machines, but expensive to repair. Any other comments? 4) I know that there are 300SS, 400SS, 300SM, 400SM, and 300ST available. Anyone know how the machines differ? 5) Any recommended TIG reference books? And yes, I am going to take a welding class or three.
Thanks muchly, Peter Peter Grey 27/5/2004, 17:54 น. When I was in the Navy I used a 300ST but was unable to locate a Navy manual for it online. Here's the Navy publication number, perhaps you'll have better luck.S6240-B2-MMC-010 and title (I love how all book titles in the military are essentially written in reverse) WELDING MACHINE, PORTABLE, MODEL POWCON 300ST; DESCRIPTION, OPERATION, AND MAINTENANCE As I remember, this was a nice machine to use and wouldn't mind having one of my own. It took one heck of a beating (on a submarine) and didn't have any problems. Yamaha r1 2017 price philippines.
When the shore based maintenance guys came to weld (from nuclear welds to deckplate framework welding) they always used a 300ST as well, but that may have been because they didn't have a choice of another machine. Shawn 'Peter Grey' wrote in message news:[email protected]. Anyone have a manual? Peter stagesmith 28/5/2004, 0:11 น. In article, Peter Grey wrote: Hi allI'm a welding novice. I've been using my Lincoln 135 Plus for a number of automotive projects at home, but have wanted a TIG welder.
I did some TIG welding a number of years ago and liked the precision and appearance of TIG in comparison to MIG. Anyhow, I've been offered on very extended loan (meaning I can have it for free) an old PowCon 300ST that I've been told works. I have dinky shop and the small size of the PowCon makes it very attractive. I've searched the archives and come up with some info but am interested in a couple of things.
I'm hoping that the folks on this NG can help a bit. 1) The unit does not come with a foot controller and I'd like one. I would prefer not to spend $280 for a pedal (one of the archived posters said that's what's wanted for a new one) and if I can score a relative cheapy on the used market, I'd be happier. Do I need to buy one specifically for the PowCon or are these 'universal'? If they're not universal but not specific to the PowCon, what do I need to look for?
You can build one either from an older salvaged foot pedal like a heavy duty old Hobart, or you can use another kind of foot pedal like a Guitar volume pedal or sewing machine pedal. What you need to know is what the resistance is for the potentiometer in the foot pedal. Then you will need some 18-5 cable and the correct connector for your machine. Total cost should be around $50.
These guys should be able to help you with the manual and any other info you need. 2) Someone in one of the posts I perused commented that inverter machines are not good for welding aluminum. I don't believe you have AC on that machine, so your options are to use DCEP with a huge tungsten, or run a spoolgun off of it like this one.
3) The posts I've read seem to indicate that these are good machines, but expensive to repair. Any other comments? Cat 312 excavator for sale. Yes and yes.
4) I know that there are 300SS, 400SS, 300SM, 400SM, and 300ST available. Anyone know how the machines differ?
the main differences are going to be in features. Is the machine CC and CV.Does it have certain readouts of adjustment options. Also what power does it require. Many Powcons were 3-phase only. 5) Any recommended TIG reference books? And yes, I am going to take a welding class or three.
Thanks muchlyPeter Jason Pratt 28/5/2004, 4:00 น. Peter, I have a PowCon 300ST and a Powcon Plasma Plus.
I have repaired about 10 PowCon machines over the past year and sold them on eBay (I have a 300ST for sale there now). I like the machines, they work great for me, a home shop welder. Do I need to buy one specifically for the PowCon or are these 'universal'? If they're not universal but not specific to the PowCon, what do I need to look for? Any foot pedal should work, you just may need to change the connector or pinout. I can get you the pinout diagram 2) Someone in one of the posts I perused commented that inverter machines are not good for welding aluminum.
I leave this one to the experts. I have not tried aluminum yet. 3) The posts I've read seem to indicate that these are good machines, but expensive to repair. Any other comments? A new main board costs about $600, but a rebuilt board is $280. All are available from Arc Products.
4) I know that there are 300SS, 400SS, 300SM, 400SM, and 300ST available. Anyone know how the machines differ? The number is the max current (ie., 300 amps for a 300ST). The SS is SMAW, ST is SMAW and GTAW, the SM is SMAW and GMAW. The ST has a built-in gas selenoid ad capacitance start, the SM has a transformer to power a wire feeder. Both the ST and SM have special process relevant to tig (ST) or mig (SM) welding.
5) Any recommended TIG reference books? And yes, I am going to take a welding class or three. I'm looking for a book, too. I took a great welding course at the community college a few years ago, but it was mostly stick welding.
You can operators and service manuals for these machines from Arc Products for $25. I can answer most of your easy questions.Jason Brad King 28/5/2004, 21:08 น. Powcons were very good machines. If not for Powcon, I doubt the majors offerings would not be as good as they are currently. Powcon bit the bullet and took the chance. Foot pedals are generally not available. Hand controls can be obtained from CK Systematics and others.
Old, used footpedals can be easily modified to work on the Powcon. A simple change of the pot and plug is all that is usually needed. Email me directly and I can give you details. Most inverter machines are superior in the welding of aluminum.Their 'constant energy' mode of operation is superior to the traditional constant voltage (CV) or constant current-drooper (CC). Also-as the inverter runs at a much higher frequency-often as high as 0Hz, the inverter reacts instantly to varying welding conditions. Luckily enough, Powcon did not 'proprietorize' a lot of their parts as is the custom with the majors.
With the exception of transformers, frame and outer covers-many Powcon parts can be obtained from generic suppliers such as Newark Electronics, Allied Electronics, Graingers and many others. ESAB and Miller both make good tig books available. I would recommend either or both. Read them-study them.
Then practice. Then take a course at a local vo-tech or community college, if you want. There is no substitute for 'time under the hood'. Hope this helps.
Good Luck brad 'Peter Grey' wrote in message news:[email protected]. Peter Grey 31/5/2004, 8:38 น.
Ernie Leimkuhler wrote in message news. In articlePeter Grey wrote: Hi allI'm a welding novice. I've been using my Lincoln 135 Plus for a number of automotive projects at home, but have wanted a TIG welder.
2) Someone in one of the posts I perused commented that inverter machines are not good for welding aluminum. I don't believe you have AC on that machine, so your options are to use DCEP with a huge tungsten, or run a spoolgun off of it like this one. Are there any disadvantages in getting a Readywelder spool gun to use with the Powcon and selling my Lincoln 135? 4) I know that there are 300SS, 400SS, 300SM, 400SM, and 300ST available. Anyone know how the machines differ?
Chilton Repair Manual
the main differences are going to be in features. Is the machine CC and CV.Does it have certain readouts of adjustment options. Also what power does it require.
Many Powcons were 3-phase only. Is there an advantage in using three phase over single phase other than (I think) more power? I'm using a 5 HP RPC to power my mill. Is this suitable for a welder? Thanks, Peter stagesmith 31/5/2004, 19:34 น. In article, Peter Grey wrote: Ernie Leimkuhler wrote in message news. In articlePeter Grey wrote: Hi allI'm a welding novice.
I've been using my Lincoln 135 Plus for a number of automotive projects at home, but have wanted a TIG welder. 2) Someone in one of the posts I perused commented that inverter machines are not good for welding aluminum. I don't believe you have AC on that machine, so your options are to use DCEP with a huge tungsten, or run a spoolgun off of it like this one. Are there any disadvantages in getting a Readywelder spool gun to use with the Powcon and selling my Lincoln 135? Running the readywelder on thin sheetmetal with 0.024' wire requires a lower voltage. If your powcon has he ability to reduce it's open circuit voltage for rods like 6013, then it will work fine. I do this on my Maxstar 200DX by increasing the 'dig' control.
Otherwise I would keep the Lincoln 135 for thin stuff. 4) I know that there are 300SS, 400SS, 300SM, 400SM, and 300ST available. Anyone know how the machines differ? the main differences are going to be in features. Is the machine CC and CV.Does it have certain readouts of adjustment options. Also what power does it require.
Many Powcons were 3-phase only. Is there an advantage in using three phase over single phase other than (I think) more power? I'm using a 5 HP RPC to power my mill. Is this suitable for a welder? The powcons that ran on either single or 3 phase did it in a very simple way, by only using 2 out of 3 windings.
So on 3 phase you get 300 amps output, but on single phase you only get 200 amps of output. Peter Grey 31/5/2004, 20:05 น. 'Ernie Leimkuhler' wrote in message news:37484092%[email protected]. 4) I know that there are 300SS, 400SS, 300SM, 400SM, and 300ST available. Anyone know how the machines differ? the main differences are going to be in features.
Is the machine CC and CV.Does it have certain readouts of adjustment options. Also what power does it require.
Many Powcons were 3-phase only. Is there an advantage in using three phase over single phase other than (I think) more power? I'm using a 5 HP RPC to power my mill. Is this suitable for a welder? The powcons that ran on either single or 3 phase did it in a very simple way, by only using 2 out of 3 windings. So on 3 phase you get 300 amps output, but on single phase you only get 200 amps of output.
Haynes Repair ManualPowcon Repair Manuals
So other than the 'quantative' difference, is there any difference in the 'quality' of the welds or the process? Peter stagesmith 31/5/2004, 20:47 น.
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